The dangers of improper cleaning

Most modern cleaning methods (in plant machines, commercial and home extraction machines, and most chemical cleaning solutions) are intended solely for modern synthetic fibre wall-to-wall carpeting. The ease of use and seemingly acceptable cosmetic improvement provided by these cleaners have made them extremely popular over the last 50 years. These "modern" methods should only be used on the modern synthetic carpets they are designed for. Use on natural fibre rugs and carpets is usually disastrous. Much of the damage is long term and not immediately able to be seen.

In these sections, we will try to help you better understand how these modern methods can damage your carpets.

• Health and safety concerns.
• Problems with cleaning methods.
• Dangers of detergents and optical enhancers.

Health and safety concerns.

Ongoing concerns of health and safety have encouraged cleaning equipment and chemical supply companies to start selling respirators and specially designed gas masks for the persons that use their products. Unfortunately, very few of the carpet cleaning businesses (or their employees) make use of the safety equipment. Currently, government regulations on carpet and rug cleaning services are suggestions and voluntary. There is no enforcement for any health or safety concerns.

The cleaning businesses purport their services to be safe and healthy. They would never send an employee into a home to surface clean (steam extraction method) with a respirator on. Immediately, the home owner would feel very uneasy and worry about what the family is being exposed to. For this reason, more than any other, cleaning companies just simply ignore the safety issues and health concerns. "In Plant" cleaning methods (whether using large machinery or using the same portable systems using in home) alleviate many of the concerns of exposure to the cleaning chemicals in the home, but not all.

When surface steam extraction cleaning begins, an employee pours cleaning detergent solvents into a large tank fill with water (usually very hot tap water). The water is supposed to be pH balanced but rarely is. The majority of the cleaning chemical manufactures are well aware of this and encourage a stronger mixture of their chemicals (this also allows them to sell more as the cleaner needs to use a larger amount of their product). A "foam reducer/regulator" is poured in the mix to cut down on the soap suds when extracting the soap from the rug or carpet. And an optical enhancer is added to the cleaning solution to brighten the rug or carpet colors. All these things would certainly seem harmless enough, after all, they are cleaning the dirt, grime, allergens and other undesirables from your rug or carpet. Right?

Although the method, materials, and final appearance of this method would seem to be effective, it is nothing more than a culmination of sixty years of short cuts and promotion of chemical companies to sell their products.

Problem 1:
When steam extraction methods are used, everyone in the vicinity of the cleaning activities are exposed to steam/water vapor. You can see the water vapor rise into the air as the drag wand sprays water and soap onto the surface of the rug or carpet. Within minutes of the start of the cleaning, all the chemical agents in the water are airborne as the steam and water vapor mixes with the air in the room. Inhalation of the air allows the chemicals to be directly ingested through the lungs to you, your children, and your pets.

If you've ever been to a hospital or doctor's office and seen respiratory breathing treatments, you will know that the quickest way to get medicine into a patients breathing system is to mix the medicine with fluid and have it inhaled in a vaporous form. The same thing happens in your home, whether the room is well ventilated or not. As noted in the information plate on the right, the exposure to the chemicals just isn't safe.

With several decades of complaints, chemical companies that manufacture "cleaning" products have discovered nerve gas agents (the type used in war campaigns) can be added to their products. Instead of perfuming the chemical agents, the product (when airborne) will "deaden" a persons sense of smell. This circumvents having to find perfume agents that can be mixed safely with the cleaning chemicals and helps keeps some of the chemical manufacturing costs down. It also stops complaints from the home owner over the horrible smell of the soaps and stain cleaning agents. The complication is the long term effects of the nerve agents (many of which the government and medical community are still studying).

Problem 2:
After a rug or carpet cleaner has long left your home and the carpet is finally dry, most people would feel at great ease sitting down on the floor and playing with their children and pets. The rug certainly looks good now... Although it may appear clean, healthy, and safe, much of the soap and chemicals are still in the carpet. Surface cleaning machines are rated (in part) with a measurement called "water-lift". This is a measurement taken in a lab measuring how strong the suction is and how much water that machine can suck up. When the machine is pulled over the surface of a rug or carpet, the machine is limited by its water-lift, the friction of the rug or carpet surface, the uneven suction of air from between and around the pile fibres, and thickness of the pile (among other factors). All of these factors reduce the full effectiveness of the machine. Even if the extraction machine were operating at its full capacity, without the drag factors, the machine can only pull a limited amount of water, soap and dirt from the pile of the carpet. A portion of the water, chemical soaps and dirt remains at the base of the pile and in the foundation of the rug or carpet.

Many home owners are surprised when they go to redecorate with new carpeting and the old carpeting is pulled off the floor only to find areas of mold and mildew. This is caused by trapping of moisture between the foundation of the carpet and the floor. Extraction cleaning methods leave enough moisture to foster mold and mildew. And some of the cleaning chemicals actually promote mold and mildew growth.

The cleaning detergents, optical enhancers, foam reducers, stain and traffic treatments can still be found in your rugs and carpets years later. Some of the chemicals are so strong they can be and are absorbed through the skin. Oil on the skin activates parts of the cleaning agents chemical structure which lay dormant in the pile of your rug or carpet. Once the chemical is activated by the oil, it easily penetrates through the epidermis (that is the protective outer-most layer of skin). Initial reactions include rash, dry skin, bleaching of skin color, and defatting of the skin. With short or long term exposure, these conditions progress into multiple forms of melanoma (skin cancer). The absorption of these chemicals has also been linked to malformation of embryo and fetus (information obtained by OSHA, USA National MSDS, Section 9 VOC).

With all the environmental and known concerns of chemicals in use today, it is very easy to overlook the dangers of having your rugs and carpets cleaned. The simple solution is to avoid the improper cleaning methods and choose the more health mindful approach. A safe and healthy approach is as good for the well-being of your family and pets as it is for the health of your rugs and carpets.

 

Problems with cleaning methods.

Following the human and animal (pet) concerns created be modern cleaning methods, there are numerous concerns about the effects of these methods on the actual rug and carpet.

• Steam extraction / hot water washing methods and dye stability.
• Soap residue.
• In-home rug drying.
• Hung (in-plant) drying.
• In-plant ringers.
• Fringe bleaching.
• Antique-wash (includes "tea-wash" and "sun-wash")

Steam extraction / hot water washing methods and dye stability.

The most popular of modern cleaning methods is the steam extraction method. This process was designed primarily for synthetic fibre plain wall-to-wall carpets.

Hot water (on the verge of steam) is necessary for most chemical agents to achieve a temperature which will strip dirt from the oil based synthetic fibres. Synthetic fibres are surface dyed or "tinted" with color (dyes do not actually penetrate synthetics). Natural and mineral based dyes penetrate the fibre and are mordanted to hold the colors fast. The temperatures used in surface cleaning/steam extraction methods often breakdown natural, mineral, and even chemical based dyes on all types of fibres (though more noticeable in natural fibres).

To avoid damage, most cleaning companies have learned to keep the water temperature at a level where dyes are less likely to breakdown (at the cost of reducing the effectiveness of the cleaning detergents and chemical cleaning solutions).

The breakdown of dyes results in bleeding (damage increases when rug is hung to dry), shading, and tinting. Color breakdown in more common in darker colors (such as reds, dark green, dark blue, black and browns).

Most bleeding cannot be corrected. Tinting and shading can be reduced (often completely) in visibility over time. This is accomplished through normal use as loose or excess dye slowly wears off the surface of the fibre exposing the original color beneath.

Proper thorough (non-machine) cleaning in cold water combined with flat natural drying is the only alternative and the only safe method to best protect dyes and colors.

 

Soap Residue.

As mentioned above, steam extraction machines (including the in-plant versions) can only remove water and soap (chemical detergents and cleaning agents) from the pile: vacuuming the surface of the rug or carpet. With the limitations of a machines water-lift specification and the dragging effect of friction, a large percentage of water, diluted dirt and soap residue remain in the rug or carpet. Most of these materials sit at the base of the pile fibre and some soak into the foundation. If the extraction machines were completely effective in their job, there would be no need to allow the rug or carpet to dry, no need for fans to help force air dry the wet rug/carpet.

The materials that sit at the base of the pile (inside the carpet) dry in place. The soap residue remains sticky which draws and holds dirt and grime as the rug or carpet resumes use. Within a few short months after cleaning, many home-owners already begin to notice their rug is getting dirty again. The fault lies in the cleaning method and the sticky chemicals still sitting within the pile. Each subsequent cleaning adds to the materials within the carpet and layers of dirt and soil build up. Some chemical agents claim to be able to break some of the materials down and allow them to be steam extracted from the rug. In a fantasy universe where physics does not apply, this could be successfully argued. In this universe, an extraction machine still cannot overcome the drag, loss of suction, and limitation of the water-lift to successfully remove the cleaning agents.

The presence of these materials effects both synthetic and natural fibres (though the effect on natural fibres is far greater). Much like washing your own hair, soap strips oil and protein from the wool hair follicle. This causes the hair follicle. to become dry and brittle. Without proper conditioning to restore the oil and protein, the fibre looses its cohesion breaking and falling apart. When soap residue remains in and at the base of the pile threads, this series of destructive events begins. With continued use, more soil/dirt gets trapped in the sticky soap residue. The soil/dirt slowly grind against the fibres, breaking and shredding the fibres. Other soap residue that has soaked into the foundation material causes the same drying and deterioration (including dry-rot). Over time, the deterioration escalates at an exponential rate. Eventually the foundation becomes dry, brittle and subject to break easily under even the slightest of tension.

These concerns may sound simplistic and of little concern in the short run. Unfortunately, the damage that begins unseen blossoms quickly and much of the damage is irreversible. Proper cleaning can help a rug or carpet, even after an improper cleaning. In cases of old, dry-rotted condition, a proper cleaning can return pliability and a large percentage of life to a rug or carpet. Unfortunately, it cannot correct all damage.

 

In-home rug drying.

In-home cleaning rarely allows a rug to dry properly. Following the details explained in the "soap residue" section immediately above, the foundation of a rug or carpet holds a good percentage of the dirt/soil and cleaning chemicals, in addition to the water used in the process. The percentage amount of all of these materials remaining in the rug or carpet is dependant on the type of fibres, thickness of pile yarn, type of foundation and whether the rug or carpet is heat-set, tufted into glue or the rug or carpet has a latex backing.

When an extractor machine is turned off and the rug is ready to dry, fans, forced air or heat is used to cause the moisture to evaporate into the air of the room (see also "Health and safety" concerns above). Some of the moisture works its way in between dirt and soil still in the rug that the extractor machine is unable to reach. The moisture also soaks into the foundation materials (absorbed extremely quickly if any cotton is present). The fan and forced air methods of drying never reach the back of the rug or carpet.

Long after the cleaning and drying appear to be complete, the moisture remains at the very base of the rug against a floor surface that does not breathe. Mold and mildew begin to grow and live on the fibre materials in the rug. When the rug is finally pulled up or removed (for disposal or proper cleaning), both the rug/carpet and the flooring itself are frequently heavily damaged. Flooring can be stained or its structure can be weakened. The foundation materials in the rug or carpet may be completely eaten-away by the mold and mildew and/or the foundation may give way with very little movement, tension or the weight of water when trying to clean and/or repair the damage.

 

In-plant ringers.

Some cleaning plant operations have equipment known as a "ringer". This equipment uses two large rolling bars to squeeze excess water from a rug or carpet. The rug or carpet is fed in one end, goes through the rollering bars and out the other end where the rug is either wet-vacuumed or taken to a drying room and hung to dry.

Ringers are expensive and tend to do a great deal of damage. For this reason, many companies no longer use the ringer. However, there are still those that do and they are still available new to cleaning companies.

When a rug or carpet is fed unevenly, or the rug or carpet has uneven wear, is structurally imperfect or compromised, and/or the rug has any buckles of any kind, it can get caught in the ringer action causing rips, tears or shredding.

A ringer cannot compensate for uneven tension in its work. It therefore creates more damage than the small benefit of reducing some amount of water in a rug or carpet.

 

Hung (in-plant) drying.

Having your rug or carpet removed from your home for cleaning is most often the best choice for a successful cleaning. This limits the health risks and potential damage issues explained above. "In-Plant" cleanings often use the same extraction machines as in-home cleaners or a heavier-duty version of the extraction machines. The biggest difference between in-home and in-plant cleanings are the drying process.

When a rug or carpet is washed in-plant is completed, the rug is hoisted up like laundry on a clothes-line. Most cleaners use large clamps on pipes or a large piece of wood (sometimes using tack stripping). This helps solve the problem of having moisture remain in the back of the rug. Unfortunately, while trying to solve one problem, this drying method creates a whole series of new problems.

As a rug hangs, the water still in the rug (that extractors cannot remove) runs through the rug to its lowest end. The soap residue and other cleaning chemicals flow right along with the water. If the rug had any dye issues, or the dye reacted negatively to any of the cleaning agents, the dye will run in the same direction as the water. If the rug was dry-rotted or had any structural imperfections, the rug will likely tear or rip under the weight of the water running and resting at the lowest hanging point of the rug.

This drying method allows the highest point of the rug (near the clamps hold it) to dry the fastest. The lower portion of the rug remains wet longer. When heated forced air is blown towards the rug, the rug, the water still in the rug, and the chemicals heat up. The combination of these factors can break down dyes causing bleeding, shading or tinting.

The hanging also allows dirt, soil and grime that was unable to be sucked out by the extraction machine to ride along with the water along the base of the pile and foundation to the end of the rug. Some of it drips free. The rest collects along the end of the rug or carpet and the binding or fringe (making the edge of the rug have a larger concentration of dirt than when it was when it was sent in for cleaning).

 

Fringe bleached.

Following the "hung (in-plant) drying" method detailed above, a fringe on the end of a rug will most often take the majority of abuse and damage.

All of the dirt, grime, soil, and cleaning chemicals ride along with the water from the top-most hung area of the rug to the lowest end where it runs and drips on the drying room floor. Typically, the last part of the rug to hold the water is a fringed end. The heavier materials accompany the water but leave traces in the fringe. Forced heated air causes the soap residue to brown and other chemicals dry leaving visible inconsistencies in areas of concentration. If the rug or carpet experiences bleeding, dye may also discolor the fringes during the drying process. The cleaning company's perfect solution: bleach.

To remove discolorations, the rug can be pulled down and cleaned all over again, and likely experience the same exact problems, or the cleaner can bleach fringe of the rug or carpet.

Bleaching the fringes may appear to clean and brighten the fringe, though its damaging effects far out way a temporary appearance improvement.

Whether the bleach is sprayed onto the fringe while the rug is hanging, or the rug is lowered and the end is sponged or bleach is poured directly on and then rinsed (or not), the bleach dries out the fringe fibers (sometimes melting the fibre if synthetic, and causing complete instant deterioration when fringe is wool). When the rug is completely dry, the cleaner may brush the fringe with a wire-brush to soften the harsh brittle feel caused by the bleach.

When the rug is returned to its owner and put back in use, the fringe continues to deteriorate. Eventually the fringe begins falling apart. The shank (length) of the fringe simply breaks into two.

Cleaners do not mind using the fringe at all. Not only does it cover gross damage such as improper cleaning causing bleeding of dyes into the fringe when the rug is hung to dry, it creates future business opportunities with their client. How can this be? The average home-owner will naturally assume that the fringe is simply wearing under normal use. Fringes, sides, and ends after all, are a maintenance issue. The rug is sent or taken into the cleaners again, and the fringes now need replacing. This can accompany another cleaning or be completely separate. In either case, it affords the rug and carpet cleaning more work from a paying client. Most fringe work can run $5.00 per foot to $35.00 per foot depending on the type of rug, the type of fringe, and how the company puts the fringe on the rug.

The disaster of bleach usage not only afflicts the fringe. When bleach comes in contact with fringes, most fringes will "wick" or absorb and pull the bleach up into the foundation of the rug adjacent the fringe. This is the effect seen in many tv commercials when a small blot of water is soaked up by a large paper towel. In the same fashion as the dry areas of the towel pulling the moisture towards its edges, bleach is pulled up into the foundation of the rug. The bleach attacks the foundation material in the same way it attacks the fringe. This can result in very large areas of the end of a rug becoming brittle leading to holes and fraying of the ends. Down the road... most rug and carpet cleaners will either replace the fringe at the cost of the client (using the excuse of normal wear), or they will literally hack off the end of the rug, fraying the rug to create new fringe or using an applied fringe. In either case, when end and guard borders go missing, the value of the rugs usually decrease substantially.

 

Antique-wash (includes "tea-wash" and "sun-wash")

Uneven wearing (modeling effect). Chemical change to the character of the wool and the dye. Bleach, chlorine and other agents used to cover poorly dyed and damaged carpets. These after often then sold as being an "antique" rug when they are of extremely recent vintage.

In recent years rug and carpet dealers have made use of an old trick used by dyers to tint and change colours of materials. The old method was referred to as a "tea-wash" or simply as "tinting".

Tinting, when referring to the process of dying materials, is the action of darkening or lightening a finished dye by using an agent such as tea. Tea and coffee are both used as dye stuffs. Tea and coffee (in different strengths of dilution) can soft or take the edge off a dye that resulted too bright or a few shades off of the desired effect.

The "antique-wash" (also called "tea-wash" and "sun-wash") is done for two very different purposes. The first of these is to make a non-decorative rug more palatable to the market. If a rug is imported into a market where a particular colour is no longer in vogue or the colour appears to harsh, an antique-wash (tea-wash or sun-wash) will be used on the rug to make it easier to sell within that market. The second reason for this is to reduce and hide damage which may have been caused by poorly dyed materials being used in the weaving process, damage in shipping (such as salt-water damage), rugs and carpets that have been damaged in floods, or to reduce uneven dying from different dye-lots or dyes being used in different sections of a rug.

Antique-washed are most often accomplished with bleach or chlorine (though other chemical agents can be used to achieve similar effects). The tea and coffee methods are rarely used today (even though the name "tea-wash" is heavily used by dealers). The chemical methods (including bleach and chlorine) damage and deteriorate. the pile fibres in addition to changing the character of the fibre and the dyes. The damage is irreversible. When these rugs are put in use, these treatments wear off the surface of the pile and cause an uneven modeling effect. When rugs and carpets with such treatments are washed, the treatments breakdown unevenly or all-together. In cases where the treatment completely or mostly washes out of a rug, the colour on the surface of the pile reveals its damage: often a completely different colour from the base of the wool where it is secured in the foundation of the rug or carpet. This damage adds to the uneven modeling effect as the rug or carpet continues to be used and receive normal wear.

Note of clarification: some conservation oriented repair persons will still use the tea and coffee method for tinting to match repair materials to an original. The traditional method for colour matching of repair materials should not be mistaken or confused with the current commercial use of these terms.

The information provided herein is not intended for the promotion of Shaneybrook's services over other businesses. Shaneybrook's services adhere to museum approved methods with conservation and preservation concerns in mind. Although conservation and preservation methods often conflict and compete with generally accepted commercial methods and applications, conservation and preservation teams understand there are legitimate uses from modern methods exercised by the more commercial industry. Shaneybrook's recommends education of the public to be better informed on all the concerns of each methodology, their benefits and drawbacks. In the end, it is up to the client to choose their service provider. Shaneybrook's hopes the resource information shared on this site will be used positively for the protection and proper treatment of a clients goods.