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Concerns & considerations: weave marks

 

Weave mark is a term used to describe a manufacture mark woven (usually) into the back of the rug. Weave marks are used to designate many different manufacturing specifications including: pattern number, color number, etc.; more often it represents the manufacturer mill, product line, and/or quality. Note: some rugs have weave marks, some do not.

 

 

Examples

The weave mark on this jacquard brussels reads "SHUTTLEWORTH".

In this case, the weave mark only designates the name of the original mill manufacturer, Shuttleworth Mills (of Philadelphia).


 

 

The weave mark on this jacquard wilton rug reads "WHITTALL ANGLO-PERSIAN" (lower right of photograph).

In this case, the weave mark designates the original mill manufacturer, Whittall Mills (of Worcestor, Mass). It also designates their highest quality product line, "ANGLO-PERSIAN".

As an important note, many so called "rug dealers" refer to almost all wilton rugs as "anglo-persians" as they were the most famous product lines from one of the longest surviving mills in the United States (1880-1956).

Whittall produced no less than eight different quality wilton rugs at any given time, including: PALMER, ANGLO-LORRAINE, ANGLO-KERMAN, PEERLESS, ARABIC, MARION...

These other product lines, as well as the product lines of other mills should not be misconstrue to be a Whittall "anglo-persian" or vise versa.


 

 

The weave mark on this jacquard wilton rug reads "WHITTALL ANGLO-LORRAINE".

In this case, the weave mark designates the original mill manufacturer, Whittall Mills (of Worcestor, Mass). It also designates the product line quality:"ANGLO-LORRAINE".

This example was chosen to show the difference between two product lines from the same company. Although the weaving specifications were almost identical, the materials used in each product line were very different. The untrained buyer or dealer would not know the difference.

ANGLO-PERSIAN: worsted wool velvet pile

ANGLO-LORRAINE: worsted mohair velvet pile

 

Unfortunately, the lack of knowledge and education on matters such as these have led most rug dealers to simply make up stories and spread misinformation rather than admitting they don't know or understand the differences identified by weave marks. Many "rug dealers" refer to all wilton rugs as "anglo-persians" even though the rugs may be from other manufactueres and of inferior qualities. This has led to a great deal of confusion, misrepresentation and frustration among buyers, collectors, sellers, and owners of these fine rugs and carpets.


 

 

The weave mark on this jacquard wilton rug reads "FRENCH WILTON".

In this case, the weave mark designates only the product quality line. The product really has nothing to do with France. "French Wilton" was a high-quality product line manufactured by Hardwick & Magee (of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania).


 

 

The weave mark on this jacquard wilton rug reads "KARAGHEUSIAN HER".

In this case, the weave mark designates the original mill manufacturer, A. & M. Karagheusian (Freehold, New Jersey). It also designates their highest quality product line, "HERATI WILTON ".

Only the first three letters of the product quality line are visible on the back of this rug. The reason for this has to do with the punching of the jacquard cards used in the weaving process to program the rugs design/pattern. When weave marks are programmed in or near borders (and not at the pattern repeat), the full weave mark stops. This is not a flaw and is not a mistake.

The weave mark on this particular rug appears to be backwards. This is not a flaw or mistake. Depending on how the cards were loaded on the loom, or if the repeat of a pattern was a reverse or mirror image of 1/4 or 1/2 of the rug, occasionally the weave mark will show in reverse. In larger sized rugs (9x12 and bigger), weave marks can be seen reading normal and another weave mark may appear at the opposite end of the rug in reverse.


 

 

The weave mark on this jacquard wilton rug reads "FETTEROLF BUCKINGHAM".

In this case, the weave mark designates the original mill manufacturer, Fetterolf Mills (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania). It also designates their highest quality product line, the "BUCKINGHAM ".


 

 

Additional note regarding quality designations:

As mentioned above, many of the mills produced numerous qualities/product lines. Each of these quality/product lines was designed to compete with similar quality/product lines manufactured by competing mills. The actual weaving specifications of the highest quality product line from all of these mills was a 9.33 pitch by 13.33 row count tufts of wool per square inch (observed as 124-125 knots per inch by the typical rug dealer).

The Anglo-Persian from Whittall, the Herati from Karagheusian, the Karnak from Shuttleworth, the Karnak from Mohawk, the Royal Kashan from Thomas Develon, and the Buckinghamn from Fetterolf, among others, are all of the same 9.33 pitch by 13.33 row quality. One should not be considered superior or lesser than the others.

 

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