Weaves: Wilton
Often mistaken as a brand named after Wilton, England, Wilton actually refers to the product made in the area and made popular within the mills of Wilton, England. The sister carpet, the Brussels (as noted below) is almost identical to the carpet made popular in Brussels, Belgium. The cut pile fabric became synonymous with its birth place, Wilton, while the looped pile is known today as Brussels.
Wilton carpet is a cut-pile fabric. The method of weaving wilton is so similar to that employed in the making of brussels that only the few principle differences need be noted.
Wilton is also woven with a jacquard attachment and the frames are arranged the same as for brussels. The main difference between brussels and wilton is that for wilton the inserted wires, over which the strands of worsted are caught, to form the pile, are made with sharp knives at their far ends. As these wires are withdrawn the sharp knife-ends cut the loops of worsted and leave an open, velvet-pile, instead of a loop-pile. Wilton carpet requires slightly more worsted yarn than is needed for brussels. The wires are a little higher, so when the loops are cut, the pile of wilton is a little higher than the loop of brussels. Also the cut-ends require a somewhat more substantial binding-in to the fabric. In Brussels where the loops are uncut, two shots of weft are sufficient. In weaving wilton, three shots of weft are usual. Also, wilton is generally woven a little closer than brussels, in the up-and-down way of the carpet, having sometimes as many as 27 wires to each length wise two inches. Cheaper grades may have fewer wires.
For a century or more, wilton was woven only in the 27 inch width, the same as brussels, it was later made on great looms which turn out wilton carpet in widths up to 12, 12 and 15 feet. This is often called broadloom wilton and is far more expensive than the 27 inch width variety as it obviates the necessity of seaming.
3 shot, 3 frame wilton
5 shot, 5 frame wilton
3 frame brussels, 3 frame wilton comparison