Weaves: Aubusson

The aubusson rug follows the early tradition of French tapestry weavers dating back to the fifteenth century. The weave of the rug is the same as the tapestry, except that, for a floor covering, a coarser stitch is usually employed, making the fabric somewhat heavier and thicker than for a hanging.

The aubusson rug is woven on a loom, either on what is called a "haute-lisse" (high-warp), or on a "basse-lisse" (low-warp) loom. The high-warp loom has its warp placed in a horizontal position, as if spread on a table in front of the weaver. There are slight differences of technique in operating these two kinds of looms which, however, do not affect the appearance of the finished piece to any extent, if both looms are used by equally competent weaver. In both cases the wrong side of the tapestry is on top, or facing the weaver. However, the two sides of the fabric are identical with the exception that some loose threads are left on the wrong side. The high-warp loom has no treadles and the worker separates the warp threads with his hands during the process of weaving. The cartoon is hung behind him and a mirror hung in front of him to reflect it. The outline of the design is traced in India ink on the warp threads. By walking around to the back of the loom, the weaver can see the right side of his work.

The low warp loom has treadles with which the worker may separate the warp threads with his feet, thus leaving both hands free to use the bobbins. The cartoon for this loom must be painted with its design reversed from the way it is to appear in the finished work and is placed under the warp. The only way the weaver on this loom can see the right side of his work is to place a mirror underneath a portion of it whenever he wishes to make sure of any part. On both looms the work is woven sideways; that is, the length of the warp will be across the width of the finished tapestry or rug. So, instead of beginning at the bottom of a rug and working towards the top, as is usual in all tufted fabrics, the weaver begins at one side and works to the other side. The woof threads are woven over and under the wrap threads, completely hiding the warp and making a finished fabric of smooth surface, with the warp threads forming slight ribs across the fabric. In the aubusson weave all design lines which are parallel to the warp threads are avoided as much as possible. On account of the technique of this weave, wherever such lines occur, a slit is formed in the fabric. This must be sewed together by hand after the weaving is finished and the rug or tapestry is taken off the loom. For an aubusson, the warp is usually of cotton and the weft is usually of wool or finely polished worsted. All rugs of this weave need to be properly stretched and well lined before they are used on the floor. The selvage is turned under and hemmed in by the lining and no fringe is left at ends or sides or added to them. From 5 to 8 warp threads to the inch is about the usual pitch of an aubusson carpet. Anything less than 5 produces a very coarse quality. More than 8 threads to the inch makes a fabric rather too fine for the floor.

Double interlocking wefts (shown front and back below).